Encounters with dogs on a leash are part of every dog ​​owner's everyday life. Whether on the sidewalk, in the woods, or in a residential area – sooner or later, you'll cross paths with another dog on a leash. Sounds simple? Unfortunately, it's not always. Many dogs react with agitation, pulling, barking, or barking – especially if they're frustrated because they can't make their own decisions.

In this article, I'll show you how to work specifically on relaxed leash interactions—with a puppy, a newly adopted young dog, or an adult dog. And I'll explain how to get frustration and leash-barking under control.

1. Why leash encounters so often go wrong

• The leash takes away the dog’s freedom of choice.

• Social pressure: You can't avoid it or act "dog-like" politely.

• Frustration: The dog is not allowed to go even though he wants to.

• Previous stress: Perhaps there have already been bad experiences on the leash.

• Insecurity: Some dogs feel restricted on a leash and therefore insecure or aggressive.

2. Right from the start: Preparing puppies

Goal: The puppy should learn that leash encounters are completely normal and nothing exciting.

• Don't let every dog ​​go near you: Even if he wants to "play" – keep calm before getting close!

• Keep your distance: It is better to walk in a circle or stay still as long as the puppy is calm.

• Reward calm behavior: Does he look at you or stay loose on the leash? Treat!

• Introduce a clear ritual: e.g. “Come with me” + reward when he goes with you, instead of staring.

3. If things suddenly go wrong despite good training – what happened?

It often happens that dogs that were well socialized as puppies later become known for leash-beating.

Possible reasons:

    - Puberty & Adolescence

    - Lack of generalization

    - Unconscious reinforcement

    - Accumulated frustration

    - Bad experiences

What you can do:

    - Accept setbacks

    - Adjust training level

    - Analyze changes

    - Get support

4. Adopted dog – young or adult

Your focus: orientation towards yourself, controlled stimuli, building security.

• Management: Keep sufficient distance.

• Promote responsiveness: Practice eye contact, orientation, and walking calmly.

• Design encounters consciously: Don’t just “go through with it”, but structure them.

5. When things go wrong: frustration and abuse on a leash

Frustration arises when the dog cannot go to the other dog even though he wants to.

Typical behavior:

       - Pulling, barking, screeching

       - Reactivity in the final meters

       - Friendliness off the leash

Possible cause:

Frustration or impulse control problem

6. How to train relaxed leash encounters

• Distance is your best friend

• Build alternative behavior: “Look!”, “Touch!”, “With me!”, “Go on!”

• Use marker training

• Consciously design the training situation: short sessions, controlled encounters

7. Strengthen impulse control and frustration tolerance

• Waiting for release (e.g. food or toy)

• Quiet waiting at doors

• Lure fishing training with impulse control

• Chewing and nose work

8. What you should definitely avoid

       - Coercion through encounters

       - Pressure & Punishment

       - Contact on a taut leash

Conclusion

Leash encounters don't have to be a daily ordeal. With training, structure, and patience, every dog ​​can learn to walk past other dogs calmly and in a controlled manner – whether as a puppy or already with a "backpack." And if there's an occasional clash, it's not the end of the world. The important thing is that you stick with it – your dog continues to learn every day.

Targeted exercises for relaxed dog encounters on the leash

1. "Look at me" – eye contact as an anchor

Goal: Your dog learns to look at you instead of the trigger when he sees another dog.

Here's how :

• Practice first without distractions: Say “Look” and reward every eye contact.

• Increase slowly: Practice at a greater distance from other dogs.

• Timing is everything: Mark and reward the look towards you immediately!

2. The "change of orientation" – turning the situation around

Goal: Instead of moving towards the trigger, the situation is actively resolved.

Here's how :

• Initiate a turn early (e.g. 180-degree turn with a cheerful “Come with me!”).

• Reward immediately when the dog rolls over.

• Tip: This exercise is especially helpful when your dog starts to fixate.

3. Relaxation signal “Calm down” (e.g. mat exercise or “break”)

Goal: Your dog learns to calm down, even in exciting situations.

Here's how :

• Practice the signal at home with relaxation exercises or a firm mat.

• Transfer the ritual to outdoors: Say “pause” at a safe distance, then sit down and relax.

• If necessary, support with a chew stick or sniffing game.

4. “Zig-zag running” or walking in curves

Goal: The body tension is released, the dog stays in motion and cannot fixate so easily.

Here's how :

• Change direction slightly every now and then or make detours around trees, benches, etc.

• Hold the leash loosely and reward when the dog looks at you or relaxes.

• Especially helpful in situations where distance is tight.

5. Trigger training with "anti-mob distance"

Goal: Your dog stays calm in the presence of other dogs.

Here's how :

• Find the distance at which your dog can see the other dog but still remain calm.

• Reward any calm behavior, such as looking at you, standing relaxed, or sniffing.

• Reduce the distance gradually – but only if the dog remains stable.

Note at the end

If you're still not making progress despite training, or if your dog reacts strongly to other dogs, please contact a suitable dog school or an experienced local trainer. Alternatively, feel free to send me a message – I'll be happy to help you individually and, if you wish, put together a suitable training plan with targeted exercises.